Christmas in Barcelona
The best markets, traditions and parties during nadal
By Duncan Rhodes 
Bon nadal, as we say in Catalonia! Welcome to our guide on celebrating the festive season in Barcelona. Below you’ll find everything you need to know about the Xmas markets, weird local traditions like the Caganer, as well as some cool things to do this time of year…
If you’re dreaming of a white Christmas click the ‘back’ button now. Aside from the odd freak snowstorm, pretty flakes falling from the sky are not Barcelona’s forte. For that you’re better off packing your bags for Central or Eastern Europe, where spicy sausages and mulled wine (hopefully) stave off the frostbite.
The Catalan capital offers much more Christmas romance than many would imagine, and blue skies to boot…
Maybe, however, you don’t feel the compulsive need to shiver your way through the festive season, and would be quite happy to enjoy all the celebrations without the ice-induced tremulations? In which case book your tickets to BCN right now!
The lights on Portal de l’Angel (photo by Carquinyol).
The Catalan capital offers much more Christmas romance than many would imagine, and blue skies to boot, and whether you’re more moved by seasonal carols and nativity cribs in the city’s awe-inspiring churches, applauding the brave as they dip into Port Vell harbour during the annual Christmas Day swim, or sniggering at the cheeky Caganer figure on sale in celebrity form in many of the festive markets, then you’ll find plenty of things to see and experience at this time of year in Barcelona.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Christmas a good time to visit Barcelona?
Provided you’re not looking for snow, Barcelona is a fine choice for a festive break. In addition to bustling Christmas markets and colourful street decorations, there are a number of delicious seasonal dishes to try, and some truly memorable Catalan traditions. The abundance of year-round flights and accommodation, means prices are not significantly inflated this time of year, and if you book hotels in advance there are even some great deals.
What is the weather like in Barcelona at Christmas?
The weather during the festive season is usually pretty mild, with temperatures during the day averaging 15 degrees Celsius, but often climbing higher at midday. In the evenings it cools off to average around 9 degrees Celsius. December is usually drier than October and November, and you should see plenty of blue skies.
Does Barcelona have Christmas markets?
Markets spring up all across the city from the end of November, and the main one is Fira de Santa Llúcia, celebrated in Barcelona since 1786. You can find it on Avinguda de la Catedral, the large square in front of the city’s Gothic Cathedral. Keep reading this page for info on more markets.
What is there to do in Barcelona in December?
Gaudi, Picasso, Dali, day trips, wine tours, flamenco shows… there’s much more to do in Barcelona during December than just your Christmas shopping. Check out our article for a full list of events and suggestions.
Of course there’s the fantastic decorations as well, which include towering fir trees at in Plaça de Sant Jaume and Portal de l’Angel and spectacular lights on nearly every main street… although the best are usually reserved for La Rambla.
We’ve got info on all of the above, on this very page, plus a look at the best parties thrown by local bars, clubs and restaurants. (NB: we’ve got a separate article for New Year’s Eve events!).
Christmas Traditions
Broadly speaking, Catalonia observes many of the same traditions and beliefs as other Catholic countries like France, Italy and Poland. Christmas Eve is considered as important, if not more important, than Christmas Day, and a lavish dinner is eaten with the family, before going out to visit friends, neighbours and extended family, often bringing gifts and singing carols. However, there are some traditions which are uniquely Catalan that deserve a special mention here:
Tio de Nadal
The Tió de Nadal (literally ‘Christmas uncle’ in Catalan, but better translated as ‘Christmas log’), or more commonly the Caga Tió (sh*tting log!), is just one of the region’s scatological oddities which is destined to amuse visitors for as long as the tradition survives. According to custom, a hollow log (usually about a foot long) is painted with a smiley face and put in the family home on the 8th December.
A log that sh*ts presents (photo by Valerie).
The children of the family are then tasked with feeding the Tió a little bit of food and drink every day in the build up to Christmas. Then, finally either on Christmas Day or Christmas Eve, the children beat the log with sticks and sing the following song:
Caga tió, caga torró, avellanes i mató, si no cagues bé et daré un cop de bastó. Caga tió
Which roughly translates to:
Sh*t log, sh*t nougats, hazelnuts and mató cheese, if you don’t sh*t well, I’ll hit you with a stick. Sh*t, log.
After the kids have given this verse a gleeful rendition, and smacked the poor branch good and proper, they should discover that some presents have magically appeared from the hollow of the log! In many ways its the Catalan equivalent of Santa filling children’s stockings. Travellers will find a giant Tio de Nadal in Plaça Nova, just by the main Santa Llucia market (more info below!).
The Caganer
Not content with one x-rated, x-crement themed, X-mas tradition, the Catalans only went and invented a second. The Caganer is a cheeky chap to say the least, because in the middle of the holy nativity scene he sees fit to drop his peasant’s breeches and relieve his bowels in the presence of the newborn Jesus and the Virgin Mother.
Look out for celebrity versions of this peasant plopper (photo by Oriol).
This, however, is not considered profane in Catalonia, rather it recalls pagan rituals of fertilising the soil and is considered good luck! Such is his cult status in Catalonia that you will find little statuettes of this peasant, usually squatting over his steaming new oeuvre d’art, on sale at all the Christmas markets. In fact, you’ll also find celebrity versions of him for sale, in the likeness of Messi, Barack Obama, Bart Simpson, Donald Trump… you name it!
You can check out some of my Caganer photos right here.
…article continues after photo.
Christmas Markets
There are various markets, known as firas in Catalan, set up around BCN at this time of year, although it’s worth noting that many of these actually finish on the 23rd December, so aren’t open on Christmas Day itself. Let’s start with the biggest…
Fira de Santa Llúcia
Barcelona’s main Christmas fair has been going for over 225 years: you’ll find it camped underneath the city’s imposing Gothic Cathedral. The majority of stalls are given over to selling festive decorations, nativity-scene figures (including the infamous, aforementioned, Caganer in all his usual, and celebrity, guises!), handmade crafts, traditional zambombas (friction drums) and seasonal trees and shrubs. In 2024, the Santa Llúcia market opens on the 29th November and finishes on the 23rd December, opening hours 10am to 9pm. Their website looks like it was designed in 1998, but at least it has information in several different languages, including English.
firadesantallucia.cat
Guided Market Tours
You can visit the Fira de Sant Llucia market, as well as other seasonal attractions, on this Private Christmas Walking Tour available on Get Your Guide. While this Merry Markets Tour not only takes in Fira de Sant Llucia, as well as the Port Vell Market and Artisan Food Fair.
Fira de Nadal de la Sagrada Familia
Another traditional Christmas market, this time in front of Gaudi’s otherworldly Sagrada Familia church, this Fira de Nadal boasts around 120 stalls and occasional appearances from Father Christmas to collect letters from children and to hand out sweets and balloons. Their Instagram page is the best place to get updates. In 2024, the market will be open 23rd Nov until 23rd December.
Port Vell Fair
Barcelona’s newest Xmas market, the Port Vell Fair can be found at the Moll de la Fusta (at the foot of the Christopher Columbus Statue), and typically features the city’s biggest Christmas tree, lit-up with LED lights, a Ferris Wheel and a floating nativity scene. Unlike some of the other fairs, which wrap up (pun intended) on the 23rd December, this one keeps going until 6th January. Open from 11am til 11pm each day, from late Nov to 6th Jan.
www.nadalalportvell.com
Food Artisans Market
The Fira del Col·lectiu d’Artesans de l’Alimentació, to call it by it’s long-winded Catalan title, is an annual market that pops up in Plaça Santa Maria del Pi (by the church of the same name), in the Gothic District, several times a month. In the run up to Christmas, it sets out its stalls almost every other day, selling artisanal treats such as Catalan honey, chocolates, cheeses, wines and cakes. A good one for non-kitsch stocking fillers. Official is thin on the ground, but the city website has the bare bones here.
Special Events
Naturally being Chrimbo, there’s going be a few special events taking place… here are a few favourites to check out. Usually you could also enjoy the spectacle of the Font Magica (aka Magic Fountain) spewing forth its watery jets to the sound of Christmas carols during this time of year, but for now the fountain remains inactive due to the ongoing drought situation. Hopefully a bit of rain in November and December will allow the city to switch the pumps back on!
Father Christmases Parade (mid December)
Every year hundreds of school children, dressed as Santa Claus, parade down L’Avinguda Madrid in the Sants District, joined by floats, dancers and giants, as well as Guardia Urbana’s mounted band. The district’s fire devils provide an explosive finish. The event is called the Cavalcada del Pare Noel a Sants in Catalan. More info here.
Harbour Swim (25th December)
Taking place at noon on Christmas Day itself, this testicle-shrinking sports event is a 200m dash across the Barcelona harbour for the brave. Even the Mediterranean is freezing this time of year! The Copa Nadal (“Christmas Cup”) has been organised every year since 1907 by the Swimming Club of Barcelona, when Edwald Poescheke won with a time of 3’17 “02. Head to the Christopher Colombus statue before noon if you want to spectate!
Three Kings Parade (5th January)
Whilst Caga Tio defecates a few pressies here and there on Xmas itself, the main present giving in Catalonia and Spain takes place when the Wise Men arrive to deliver their gifts to the Son of God, during Epiphany (6th January). The day before (i.e. the 5th Jan!), in what is one of Barcelona’s most spectacular annual events, the Three Magi cruise into Port Vell by galleon, collect the letters of children, and then embark on a parade of peerless pomp on well-dressed floats around town, dishing out sweets here, there and everywhere. The action starts at around 4pm, when the ship bearing the Three Kings floats into port.
Christmas Activities & Tours
Sprinkle some extra magic into the festive period with these fun and cultural activities…
Barcelona Winter Card
The Winter Tourist Card from Tiqets.com includes the unmissable Sagrada Familia, the Christmas lights at the incredible Sant Pau Art Nouveau site and an audio guide app you can use throughout the city – plus 10% off any other attraction you want to see in Barcelona. Head here for more info and to buy your card.
1. Private Christmas Walking Tour
Make the most of the festival season by hiring a local guide to take you around. From picking you up at your hotel, your host will take you to the famous Fira de Santa Lucia market and explain the rituals behind the Tio de Nadal and Caganer. You’ll be taken to the streets with the best Christmas lights and call by Barcelona’s nativity scene. Book this private Christmas walking tour via Get Your Guide.
2. Merry Markets Christmas Tour
Climb to the top of Barcelona Cathedral for epic views over the city, explore the Fira de Santa Lucia, the Food Artisans Market and the Port Vell Christmas Fair, and enjoy a warming mug of hot chocolate with churros (Catalan doughnuts!), during this private tour of the city during the festive season. Reserve via Get Your Guide.
3. Christmas Sailing
One surprise activity that you can do throughout December, even on the 25th itself, is a spot of sailing. The weather is often surprisingly fine this time of year and whilst we wouldn’t advocate partaking in the aforementioned Harbour Swim, taking a yacht out for a spin is another matter. You can book the “Vermouth & Sailing” boat trip directly on Sailing Experience BCN, with departures at 9:30am, 12pm, 2:30pm and 4:30pm. Prices start from just €39 per person.
4. Flamenco Shows
Catching a flamenco concert is one of the most popular things to do for travellers over the winter season, and a great way to pass those long December nights. We’ve written an extensive article on the best places to catch a show in Barcelona. Arguably the city’s top venue is Tablao Cordobes, and you can read our review and how to get tickets here, or simply grab tickets via Get Your Guide. Another great option is this popular Flamenco & Tapas evening, which is only €55, all included.
5. Christmas Lights Night Tour by Bus
Organised by none other than Barcelona’s official tourist board, this seasonal nighttime bus tour is available most days in December. You’ll hop on board one of the city’s iconic tourist buses and take a 1.5 hour ride around Barcelona’s best-looking locations – The Sagrada Família, the Arc del Triomf and Passeig de Gràcia – decked out in Christmas lights. Very affordable at just €15 per person (just €10 for children). You can book online via Tiqets.com or via Barcelona Turisme. Best hurry as tickets tend to sell out.
6. The Lights of Sant Pau (Christmas Garden)
Els Llums de Sant Pau is a magical night time journey into the gardens of the stunning Hospital de Sant Pau, one of Barcelona’s most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings, and now a popular museum. Stalls, cribs, festive displays, and even an ice rink, are all beautifully lit up with Christmas lights, and there are also impressive projections onto the façades of the hospital itself. Tickets available on Tiqets.com, for €15-19 per person, depending on the exact day of your visit.
Save Money: Value hunters might be pleased to discover that the Lights of Sant Pau are available as part of several combo tickets, such as this Park Guell + Lights of Sant Pau package, the aforementioned Winter Card, and also this Casa Batllo combo ticket.
7. Night Photography Tour
Take advantage of the long winter nights, and colourful Christmas decorations to improve your night time photography. On this private tour, one of Shutter King’s seasoned professional photographers will accompany you around the city at night, helping you shoot iconic architecture like the LED-lit Torre Glories or Gaudi’s monstrous Sagrada Familia to incredible effect. Whether you own a DSLR or an iPhone, by the end of the tour you’ll have some stunning pics, and be able to take nighttime photos with confidence. Just email them and ask for the nocturnal version of their popular photo tours.
8. Visit The Ice Bar
If you do fancy a quick blast of festive frost, Barcelona’s very own Ice Bar has a sub-zero chamber full of amazing frozen sculptures. Even the glasses are made of ice! The bar is right by the beach, and remains open throughout the Christmas season. Read more and get your tickets here.
9. La Sagrada Familia
Christmas is a busy time in Barcelona, so don’t forget to grab your tickets in advance to the city’s top sight… La Sagrada Familia. Where better to celebrate JC’s birthday, after all, than at Gaudi’s tribute to the holy trinity? Reserve fast track tickets via Get Your Guide, or check out all their different tour options.
10. Local Bike Tour
The air is little crisper this time of year, but that won’t stop Steel Donkey Bike Tours saddling up and showing their guests around the hidden corners of Barcelona. Pioneers of small group tourism, Steel Donkeys ride in groups of no more than 8 travellers, meaning you can scoot around town easily and even stop for a hot drink and snack along the way. Christmas is a busy time of year for them, so snap up your spaces ahead of time.
More inspiration: If you’re still searching for inspiration for your festive visit to Barcelona, check out our epic list of things to do, any time of the year. Just be prepared to extend your trip when you see what the city has to offer!
Christmas Meals & Parties 2024
So you’ve brought your Messi-faced Caganer at the markets, enjoyed the lights on Portal de l’Angel, and watched the Christmas harbour swim… now where can you get a traditional Christmas lunch?
1. Flaherty’s Christmas Meal (25th Dec)
If you simply can’t stomach the thought of Christmas without a traditional turkey lunch, in convivial company and a homely surrounds, then look no further than Flaherty’s Irish Bar. The heart of Barcelona’s international scene, this is where expats, tourists and locals come together to enjoy a beer or three! Their four course Xmas meal includes stuffed turkey roast and ham with cranberry sauce, a selection of starters, and complimentary glass of Cava, while vegetarians can swap out the turkey etc. for a Quorn roast instead. At €49 per head even Ebeneezer Scrooge wouldn’t flinch at forking out. Reserve your table by emailing: bookings@pflaherty.com
– Christmas Meal for Teams / Groups
For those that can’t make it on the 25th, but still want to indulge in some festive cheer, Flaherty’s offer the same menu for groups of 6 or more – perfect for large groups of friends, or companies throwing their Christmas bash. Drop them a line on bookings@pflaherty.com
2. La Whiskeria Christmas Meal (23rd-25th Dec)
Barcelona’s most elegant whisky bar is serving up a delicious festive lunch at 2pm every day between the 23rd-25th December. Pop along for classic ‘English’ style Christmas menu with turkey, stuffing and all the familiar trimmings. The cost is €45 per person, or €80 for couples (i.e. €40 per person), with bottle of wine included. Reservations can be made on the Events section of their website.
3. Glamour Freaks Christmas Party (24th Dec)
If you’re determined to party your way through the festive season, look no further than this club night taking place at Slow Cocktail Bar. Their resident DJs will play 6 hrs of electronic sounds in the venue’s main room, and the €12 ticket comes with a free mixed drink (or two beers). Check out their website for more info.
4. The Old Irish Pub (Every Day!)
Night owls who don’t want to stay at home over Christmas will be pleased to know that the Old Irish Pub will be opening its doors from 10pm til late, even day over the festive period, including on the 24th and 25th. Expect a convivial and cosmopolitan atmosphere at this party-loving venue on Las Ramblas. With a bit of luck you’ll find someone to kiss under the mistletoe.
More Options…
The above events are far from an exhaustive list of your festive options, so don’t forget you’ll find some of the best places to eat in the city in our restaurants section, along with their contact details, so you can see what else is cooking during Navidad.
Meanwhile, plenty of bars will be open as usual and in festive spirit. Find some of the best in town right here.
Private Christmas Parties
If you need to book your own private function, either for the office or for friends, then the Flaherty’s Christmas menu is available throughout December. Reservations via bookings@pflaherty.com.
Another great venue offering office teams or groups of friends the chance to celebrate Christmas under their roof is Belushi’s Bar, who have created a special festive menu of buffets and shared platters to choose from.
Or head to our Eat section or our Drink section for more inspiration.
Further Reading…
You’ll find many more Xmas events and activities and info on the city’s official website, whilst we have also recently written about our favourite things do do in December, Christmassy or otherwise, so do check that out.